Pattern Drafting Workshop

This past weekend I participated in a pattern drafting workshop hosted by Kay Gnagey, of Originals by Kay.

I already have a basic bodice pattern that Kay drafted and fitted for me from a number of years ago. It was been one of the greatest helps in sewing period clothing. Knowing how a bodice should fit on me correctly - where the waist should fall, how snug it should be - helps you avoid all the pitfalls of sewing from a commercial pattern. Of course, there is nothing wrong with using a well documented commercial pattern as long as you know how it should fit you, which usually means shortening the waist and making the bodice tighter.

The goal of this workshop was to take your basic bodice pattern and learn how to adjust it through cutting and shifting so you could make other bodice styles.

We started with the basic gathered bodice, then moved onto creating a false-seamed back. Next we drafted low body linings. A low body lining is not worn as a bodice (the top fashion fabric), but can be used to line a sheer dress or a regular jewel necked dress for coolness. We drafted the sheer bodice pattern that would be worn over the low body lining.

The next day we made infant body patterns. An infant body has a lower neckline, gathers, and a waistband. What made it exciting for me as an adult it that it can be worn in a sheer with a self-fabric fichu or peleraine (or one made of white organdy). This introduces a whole new way to stay cool in the hottest days of summer! It can also be used for evening.

To complete the options, we drafted a fichu pattern to wear with the infant body and learned how to modify it for a peleraine.

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