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Praline and Burnt Almonds |
It's a cold snowy day in late February and nothing brightens the day like a sweet treat (or perhaps a vacation to a sunny clime, but that's a different matter all together.) For the fourth Historical Food Fortnightly Challenge I chose to make candied almonds in two forms: burnt and pralined.
The darlings of farmers' markets and reenactments, candied almonds can now be purchased in neat plastic cones. I was aware of their German heritage and that they were originally sold or given in paper cones, which the plastic shapes mimic. I also had inklings that their origin stretched back quite a ways but had never formally researched it.
The Challenge
HFF #4 Sweets for the Sweet: It’s sugar, and maybe spice, and definitely everything nice. Test out a historic recipe for sweets, sweetmeats and candies - but don’t let them spoil your appetite!
Source, Year and Region:
I decided to use two sources for my recipes: The Complete Confectioner; or A Housekeeper's Guide by Hannah Glass and The Complete Confectioner, Pastry Cook and Baker by Eleanor Parkinson.
Hannah Glass's volume dates from 1800 and was published in London, Eleanor Parkinson's book was published in 1844 in Philadelphia.
Recipes
First for burnt almonds - I used both books
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The Complete Confectioner (Hannah Glasse)
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The Complete Confectioner (Eleanor Parkinson)
For the pralined almonds, I used Hannah Glasse's book
How Did You Make It?
I've made sugared almonds from modern recipes in the past and was delighted to see that the older recipes didn't vary all that much. The biggest change seems to be in flavoring - every contemporary recipe includes a flavoring such as vanilla or cinnamon. The historic recipes do not. I was particularly tickled to realize that the German name for this confection, "Gebrannte Mandeln" (burnt almonds) has not changed from the historic name.
Burnt or Parched Almonds
I liked the idea of using raw sugar for the common burnt almonds (Parksinson) but there were no quantities given, so I used the quantities and techniques given in the recipe for parched almonds (Glass). Although many period candy recipes recommend not stirring the boiling sugar syrup lest it become grainy, graininess was the point of this recipe, so I stirred to keep the nuts from burning.
1 lb of almonds
1 lb turinado sugar
1/2 c water
Combine sugar and water in a deep sided heavy saucepan, stir to combine, bring to a boil.
Add the almonds, turn heat to medium high. Stir, carefully watching the heat, reducing to low as the water evaporates and the sugar mixture thickens.
The sugar will suddenly turn grainy
Remove from heat and continue stirring as it becomes powdery.
Turn out onto a cookie sheet, let cool. Break apart lumps.
Pralined Almonds
Are made virtually the same as the burnt almonds, only having a second stage of cooking
1 lb almonds
1 lb sugar
1/3 c water
Proceed as in burnt almonds. After the nuts have reached the grainy stage, return to stove on a low heat. Stir continuously. The grainy sugar will start to melt. Stir until all the sugar has melted and the nuts look shiny. Pour onto a cookie sheet and let cool.
Time to Complete
Cooking took around 15 minutes for each batch, a but longer for the pralined almonds. I'll be honest, I didn't watch the clock.
Total Cost
Since I already had the sugars, the main cost was the almonds, which are expensive these days. A 3 lb bag costs $20. so each version ran around $6.50 for the nuts.
How Successful Was It?
I think they turned out well, looking as I expected. My husband and I decided we especially liked the pralined version. The biggest difference was the lack of flavoring' I hadn't realized how much a difference is made by that little bit of vanilla or cinnamon.
How Accurate Is It?
I believe these were fairly accurate. Thanks to modern grocery stores, I didn't have to clarify the sugar (Mrs. Parkinson suggests using bullock's blood), for which I am grateful.
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