Hoopskirts

Ginger was one of the most popular flavors for baked goods in the 19-century. Recipes for gingerbread and ginger cookies abound.  This recipe for "No. 1 Ginger Snaps" is a lovely example. The Recipe Add caption This recipe comes from  The Practical Cookbook , by Mrs. Bliss (Philadelphia, 1860),  The recipe is titled "Number 1" simply because it is immediately followed by Number 2 Ginger Snaps, Sources and Differences The Southern Gardener and Receipt Boo k, third edition, by Mrs. Mary L. Edgeworth (Philadelphia, 1860) provides an identical recipe, instructing the baker to add "enough flour to make a soft dough."  The New Family Book or Ladies' Indispensable Companion and Housekeepers' Guide  (New York, 1854) and The Improved Housewife  (Hartford, Conn, 1844) also include the recipe, but with a significant difference - the instructions are "to add as much flour as can be rolled into the mixture."  The amount of...

Cup Cake No. 1 We had a reenactment today here in the Chicago suburbs, and, as seems to be usual this spring, thunderstorms caused the event to cancel in the early afternoon  Rain, rain, go away! Our group had planned a period picnic for an easy fun day.  I knew I wanted to bring something easy to transport, enticing in size - just a bite! - and clean and tidy.   I settled on a Cup Cake from The New England Economical Housekeeper , by Ester A. Howland (Cincinnati, 1845). I had made this cake once before, with only fair results.  The flavor was nice, but I found it to be dry.  With advice from my friend and fellow historic food historian, Elaine Kessinger, I decided to remake it using a different technique.   The resultant cakes were tender and delicious. The Recipe The New England Economical Housekeeper The ingredients are fairly straightforward and really don't need any explanation. For flavoring, I ad...

Irish Stew for Saint Patrick's Day Saint Patrick's Day is approaching rapidly, along with all the foods we consider to be "traditional" for the day.  I thought it would be interesting to do some research into period (antebellum) foods and recipes for the day. Lyrics to "St Patrick Was a Gentleman"    The Every-Day and Table Book , Wm. Hone, 1835 The Recipe This recipe for Irish stew comes from Charles Francatelli, chef to Queen Victoria for four years.  One of his four published cookbooks is geared towards the working class.  He discusses ways to make frugal ways more filling (usually by adding oatmeal or bread to broth) and to help them extend to feed enough people. To my delight, he included a recipe for Irish stew. Preparation and Thoughts Thereon Let me confess upfront - this stew was a shock to my system.  I kept wanting to ADD THINGS  - ALL THE THINGS!   Where was the seasoning other than s...

Today, March 14th,  is the whimsical "holiday" known as Pi Day.  Such a fun excuse to make a pie, as if one truly needed an excuse to so so! I was torn between two historic pies - cranberry and coca-nut.  Both are still seasonal, cranberries starting to show up less frequently in my grocery stores of choice, and coconut being something I remember only appearing in the winter when I was a child.    Because of the path of my errands, I went to a grocery that I frequent less often and that store's stock made the decision for me.  No cranberries, either fresh or frozen.  Coconut it is! I had already selected my recipe: Cream Cocoa-nut Pudding from Miss Eliza Leslie's 1854 edition of New Receipts for Cooking  (Philadelphia).   Since I planned on making this recipe as a pie, I decided to cut the quantity in half so I would wind up with only one pie.  Preparing the Coconut In this part I was ably assisted by my hus...

Pancakes for Shrove Tuesday, from Mr Francatelli's recipe Shrove Tuesday or Fat Tuesday - traditionally a day of fried cakes, doughnuts, and pancakes, all ways to use up fats before the 40-day fast of Lent.  I did not grow up celebrating the day, and, as a result, have no traditional food associations.  When my children were little I started looking for ways to celebrate ordinary and traditional days.  Shrove Tuesday seemed like a fun thing to celebrate!   Not being much of a Mardi Gras person and being a huge fan of breakfast, I settled on pancakes.   When I moved to the Chicago area I had discovered puffed pancakes  - the German apple pancake and the Dutch Baby, and over the years my Shrove Tuesday dinners moved in that direction. This year I was thinking a Dutch baby pancake sounded about perfect for our meal.  AND THEN... .... I read a cookbook by Mr. Charles Francatelli.  If you have watched the PBS series Victoria,  the...

It's January and that means decreased levels of sunlight, lots of cold, and an upswing in illness across the board.  Christmas decorations are down and put away, leaving surroundings duller and grayer.  It's also peak time for citrus (this assumes you remember when fruits and vegetables were sold seasonally in the grocery stores). We have been eating a lot of oranges this winter.  I have been collecting the peels in a water-filled plastic zip top bag in our refrigerator,  When the bag reaches the desired level, it is time to make candied orange peel.  There is no hard or fast level - it totally depends upon how large a batch you want to make at a time and if you have the time free for candying. Historic Recipe Let's start with the historic recipe (A Cyclopaedia of Six Thousand Practical Receipts, Arnold James Cooley, New York, 1856) How to Make It! To actually make these, I used some modern techniques. Place the orange peels in a heavy-bottomed sa...

Lemon Biscuits (Cookies) Lemon Biscuits (cookies) both rounded and flattened Today's recipe for a light little cookie comes to us from Mrs. Beeton 's Book of Household Management of 1861 (London). The Original  Recipe LEMON BISCUITS 1743.    INGREDIENTS – 1–1/4 lb. of flour, 3/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon-juice. Mode .—Rub the flour into the butter; stir in the pounded sugar and very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well whisked, and the lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or two, then drop it from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches apart, as the cakes will spread when they get warm; place the tin in the oven, and bake the cakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes. Time —15 to 20 minutes.  Average cost , 1s. 6d. Seasonable  at any time. The Met...